History of the Eisenhower Dollar
March 29, 2008
After production of over 300,000, production was stopped, and it looked like the end of the large dollar coin. The Coinage Act of July 23, 1965 included a provision that no standard silver dollars were to be coined for a period of five years.
Near the end of the five year ban, Congressman Bob Casey of Texas introduced a bill into the House on October 29, 1969 calling for a circulating commemorative dollar to honor both Dwight Eisenhower and the Apollo XI space flight. Eisenhower died six months earlier and America had a significant sentiment for the WWII hero and two-term president.
Additionally, there was pressure for dollar-sized coins from the Nevada gambling casinos, which yearned for a return to the days when the action at the tables was with American silver dollars. With the silver content of a silver dollar now well beyond face value of a silver dollar, silver dollars had disappeared. Casinos had to pay premiums to buy Morgan and Peace dollars, which the public would keep, or order dollar-size tokens from the General Numismatics Corporation, which later became known as the Franklin Mint. If you can get the US Government to provide your business supplies, buy coining a new dollar coin, why not go for it?
It took more than a year, but after much political bickering, it became law on December 31st, 1970. The bill called for a circulating coin made from the same metal content (copper and nickel) used in the dime and quarter (clad) and which was to be used for half dollars in 1971.
The bill also authorized the coining of up to 150 million silver-clad coins for collectors that would be made similar to the half dollar produced from 1965-1969 which was two layers. The outer layers would be 80% silver and 20% copper while the inner layer, or core, would be approximately 21% silver and 79% copper. Overall, it was a 40% silver mix. An amendment to the bill called for a portion of the profits from these collector coins to be donated to Eisenhower College in Seneca Falls New York. Despite receiving about $9 million dollars from this source, the college ultimately folded.
With the political issues now out of the way, Mint Director Mary Brooks wanted the new dollar in production quickly. Rather than going through a public design competition, the job was turned over to Mint Chief Engraver Frank Gasparro. Gasparro already had two designs to his credit in production; the back of the Lincoln Cent starting in 1959 and the reverse of the Kennedy Half Dollar. Later, he would also provide the designs for the ill-fated Susan B. Anthony dollar.
Anticipating the new coinage, Gasparro had already begun work on the designs. Even though the first "Ike" dollar was not coined until November 1971, the first designs had the date of 1970. Although it is not clearly known why it took until late 1971 to release the new dollar, it has been speculated that there were numerous design deficiencies. For example, the relief was too high, and in fact, coins struck for circulation that year are now known as Type I while proofs are of Type II which has a higher relief. Additionally, the copper-nickel combination is a harder metal than the 90% silver composition which resulted in poor strikes.
Not uncommon when a new coin/issue is released, collectors and the public hoarded a good portion of what was released on that day and over the next few months. Over time, the new dollar reached the channels of commerce and then the issue that is still prevalent today revealed itself, which was that the American public did not want to use a dollar coin. Since the new dollars were not often seen, casinos also had a hard time keeping them on hand as people thought they were rare and kept them.
The year of 1975 saw a change to the design. Just like the quarter and half dollar, the dollar coin underwent a design change to commemorate the bicentennial. A nationwide contest was held and the winner was Dennis R. Williams. His design of a Liberty Bell superimposed on the moon was the winner. It is similar to the design on the reverse of the Franklin Half Dollar. No coins were dated 1975. Those produced in 1975 were of the bicentennial type. Beginning in 1977, the dollar coin went back to the traditional design. Due to the lack of public acceptance, the IKE dollars were produced for the last time in 1978 making way for the ill-fated Susan B. Anthony dollar.
During its run, the Eisenhower Dollar saw wide swings in production. Although over 676 million were produced for circulation, a couple of years saw very low production. In 1973, Philadelphia produced only a tad over 2 million while Denver produced only 2 million. In 1974, Philadelphia produced only 2.7 million. Denver produced many more with a mintage of 35.4 million. Peak production years were in 1975-1976 when Philadelphia produced over 117 million bi-centennial dollar coins and Denver produced over 103 million.
About the Author
Keith Scott has been a collector for over 30 years. His website has US coins for sale. He also writes Coin Collecting Articles for fun. Visit his websites for a history of US coins, metal market updates and news about your favorite coins.
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Coin Book Review: The Expert’s Guide to Collecting and Investing in Rare Coins by Q David Bowers
March 28, 2008
The book certainly does cover investing in rare coins as an investment. The book contains a whopping 34 chapters and the first 15 are devoted to investing or determining the value of rare coins. Within those chapters, there are discussions regarding the common basics of coin investing such as quality/grading, rarity, and demand. As with any commodity or collectible, if there is no demand there is no price appreciation. The best example of that is the 1909 S VDB Lincoln Cent. There are more of these coins available than many other rare coins from 20 to 30 years prior but the 1909 S VDB commands a much higher price because of the shear number of people who want that coin.
The next several chapters (chapters 16 through 30) are devoted to each different collectible type. For example there is a chapter on copper coins, a chapter on nickels, a chapter on silver coins, and a chapter on gold coins and so on. These chapters provide a very brief overview of each coin type. If you want to more detail of let's say the Buffalo Nickel, then you would want to spend the money on a book specific about Buffalo Nickels and fortunately, there are a few on the market. The same holds true for many other series such as Lincoln Cents, Shield Nickels, Mercury Dimes, and so on.
There are also chapters devoted to lesser known collectables. There is a chapter on proof coins, a chapter on colonial coins, a chapter on pattern coins, a chapter on commemoratives, a chapter on tokens, and more. Each of these chapters gives an overview of each particular item. There is even a chapter devoted to collecting Confederate paper money.
While these chapters are quite diverse, they offer a wealth of information that many collectors may not know. It is written in a manner that is very easy to follow and enjoyable to read.
Chapter 31 is devoted to developing your own personal numismatic library. If you are a series collector, it is not unheard of to spend hundreds, if not thousands of dollars on numismatic material. The old adage of buy the book first is true.
Chapter 32 delves into the world of coin cleaning and protecting your coins. Of course the best advice when it comes to cleaning coins is DO NOT DO IT. With that notion, the book discussed the various ways coins are cleaned. It also provides an overview of how to store and protect your coins.
I personally did not get this book for the advice on investing in rare coins, rather because I am more of a collector than an investor. Certainly we all want our collections to grow in value, but I read this book just because of the shear volume of general numismatic material. It is chocked full of information that for the beginning collector is priceless. It could certainly guide a beginning collector down the path of determining what he/she might have in interesting in collecting to become a true collector rather than a hoarder.
I highly recommend this book
About the Author
Keith Scott has been a collector for over 30 years. His website has Coin stuff Reviews. For Coin Book Reviews go here. Visit his websites for a history of US coins.
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Tips On Building Model Planes
March 28, 2008
2. The first thing to assemble and paint should be the cockpit as this would be enclosed permanently in the fuselage halves and it will be practically impossible to paint it later.
3. Use only a minimum amount of glue. You should try using only a thin line of glue around the fuselage and on the sides of the wings. If you find it difficult to control the amount of glue, try using a pin for applying it. If not controlled during application excess glue will form lumps on the external surface that will require finishing with sandpaper.
4. Alignment is of paramount importance during assembly. All your efforts will be in vain if the result is a crooked airplane. The wings and tail should be perfectly aligned with the fuselage. The best way would be to use tape for holding the big pieces together to check their alignment before glue is applied.
5. Many times you can observe gaps between the pieces that have been glued together. More often such gaps will be found between the fuselage halves or at joints between the wings and the fuselage. Just fill these gaps with putty or super glue and finish the surface with sandpaper once the filler dries out.
6. (a) If you are brush painting your model plane make sure that you have at least three brush sizes, wide medium and fine with you before you start painting. Never overlap brush strokes or try repainting any area that is still wet. If another coat is necessary, wait until the first coat dries out before applying the next one. When you finish painting clean your brushes with thinner and stack them upright in some old tin or cup.
(b) When painting with spray cans you may find that the flow slows down after some time. This is because the can cools down. The remedy is to place the can in warm water for about ten minutes before using it again.
(c) Though a bit costly, if you have an airbrush it is best as it will let you control the paint volume and air pressure letting you paint fine lines as desired.
7. The clear plastic canopy of your model plane has a frame that needs to be painted. A good way is to cover the whole canopy with masking tape and use a sharp blade to cut and remove the tape only from the frame, which can then be painted and left to dry. After the paint dries, remove the rest of the tape from the canopy.
8. Apply a coat of clear gloss overcoat over the paint to give your plane a shiny look. Once the gloss coat dries, you can apply the decals, which will now look much better on the glossy surface. It the plane has a naturally flat surface you can apply a clear flat coat after you apply the decals.
About the Author
Victor Epand is an expert consultant for model planes and model helicopters. You can find the best marketplace for model planes and model helicopters by visiting the best sites for model planes, model fighter planes, and model helicopters.
Article Source: Content for Reprint
Good Reasons To Own A RC Plane
March 28, 2008
Flying your own actual airplane is expensive considering the expensive training, equipment, fuel and time involved. However, there is one solution for the underprivileged unable to afford the expensive flight training and flying itself. Own a RC airplane. It is just as thrilling and adventurous as flying a real life plane. It is safe as the pilot is on ground even while flying a large mass of metal or wood through the air at great speed. The equipment required for experiencing the thrill of flying is also a thousandth of the cost of flying a real plane.
Flying the RC airplane is cheaper than owning a 747 with custom made interiors, including a drink bar and a bathroom. However, it is expensive when compared to lesser hobbies such as collecting stamps. Model RC airplanes are fragile and owning one is an investment to experience the thrill. Before getting started you need to under go training and this also costs some money. However for beginners, there are cheap model RC airplanes available that initiate them into this fantastic hobby. However, cheap RC airplanes generally fly as well as a toaster flung out of the window.
It is recommended that beginners buy RC airplanes that are powered by electricity. RC airplanes powered by nickel batteries are good for only three to four minutes and need a recharge before they are ready to fly again. RC airplanes that are powered by lithium batteries are recommended as they can fly for ten to fifteen minutes before needing a recharge. These models are stronger and sturdier with a powerful motor. The radio equipment is rated up to 300 feet which is a good altitude for beginners. The radio interface on these models is user friendly. Flying RC airplanes is a great hobby for the young and the old alike if done correctly. Making the first purchase is critical as you don't want to be stuck with a RC airplane you cannot fly. As your skills improve and you begin to feel more confident you may switch to more advanced models.
You will be amazed by the number of people that are following this as a hobby. You can find out a flying club near your home and visit the club with your family on weekends and enjoy a good outing. RC airplane exhibitions are also held frequently and it is good to take children so that they develop a liking to this sport. Competitions are also held all over the country and you may participate in them after acquiring a level of skill. Flying clubs is a good place to socialize with other enthusiasts and make friends. After a tiring day, flying a RC airplane is a good way to relax and de-stress yourself. So don't think further, just go and buy yourself a good RC airplane.
About the Author
Victor Epand is an expert consultant for model planes and model helicopters. You can find the best marketplace for model planes and model helicopters by visiting the best sites for model planes, model fighter planes, and model helicopters.
Article Source: Content for Reprint
Collectible Knives - Great Investment for the Knife Hobbyist
March 28, 2008
Fun in Collectible Knives -
The hunt for just what you want in a knife is what's the most fun for many knife collectors. Often called the chase, they scour magazines and websites for the perfect knife to add to or build upon their existing collection. There are also many knife shows where knife collectors come together to trade, buy and sell there collectible knives.
Sometimes a collection will focus on a certain type of knife for their collection, such as a pocket knife, a dagger or a boot knife. Sometimes it will focus purely on a designer or a specific manufacturer to build onto their collection. For a diversified re-sale value, a wide assortment of knives from a mixture of designers and styles can fill many collectors' cabinets.
Beware of Counterfeits in Knife Collecting -
Unfortunately, counterfeit knives are a booming business for frauds. Counterfeits are a careful copy of a genuine item, intentionally made to deceive the buyer. Even the most studied and experienced of collectors have been duped by a counterfeit knife before.
Knowing about the blade, what it's made of and how it's made is a very important thing to study before purchasing your first knife for your collection. Another part of the knife to pay close attention to is the handle. Not just the detail, but the materials can be faked as well.
The Low Grade Fake Knife -
A reworked knife and a low-grade fake knife are just a couple of the many types of counterfeit knives in circulation today. With a low-grade fake knife, the blades have usually never been heat-treated and their edges were never sharpened. They are clunky, awful and they do, nonetheless fool some people.
The Reworked Knife -
The reworked knife is a knife that has had its parts taken from other knives and put together with another knife to make one whole counterfeit knife. Sometimes the markings have been erased and new, more popular markings have been made on the blade. Epidemics in the knife collecting community, reworking knives are a thorn in the side of collectors. Sometimes, however, a knife made from mismatched parts, may be an authentic old knife. There are many instances of old cutlery firms buying up the parts inventories of defunct competitors, using up the inventories of firms that they had taken over, and re-stamping blades made for contracts that had been canceled. Therefore, every knife must be judged on its own merits.
Imaginary Knives -
Imaginary knives are any knives that are made to look old and historically interesting, but in fact are not based on any real knife out there. One thing to remember about imaginary knives is that the technology to make them was not even around when they were supposedly made.
Imaginary knives have markings or names engraved or etched on the blades. There are many out there with names that never existed in the knife industry. If this is so you can do a little homework on the Internet, in books or in magazines to determine which names are fakes and which are real.
The Old and the New -
Learning the difference between old celluloid and new plastic is also important when protecting your purchases of used, rare or additions to your collections of knives. You will also need to learn the difference between a forged blade with its tapers in every direction and a blanked blade with at most only one taper, which is toward the edge.
Know What to Look For -
The best way to guard against counterfeit and reworks is to learn what proper knives look like. Study the colors of old steel and other metals. Textures and finishes of the old handle materials should also be examined.
By first-hand examination, learn what the standard practice was for the makers and what is not. Study catalogs, illustrations and actual knives you know to be authentic.
How to Clean Your Collectible Knives -
Once you have determined that your knife collection is genuine, you must care for them with patience and work slowly when cleaning them. You can clean too little and always come back to it, but if you clean too much, you risk damaging the knife and the value of the knife.
Use soft, dry rags, wooden toothpicks and cotton swabs to remove loose dirt. Then use non-drying, non-staining oil for shining purposes. Place oil on rust spots and let it sit for a few days, then with the tip of another knife, carefully scrape away the rust only, leaving the original finish intact.
Of course, each knife may require its own way of cleaning, so this would be another area to research.
Start searching and studying today so you can begin your own knife collection!
About the Author
William "Cole" Doggett is a knife expert and owns an Internet knife shop, Knife Supply Company, LLC at Pocket Knife | Hunting Knife | SOG Knife. His website is devoted to all things pocket knives, swords, kitchen cutlery, sharpeners, machetes and a wealth of information.
Article Source: Content for Reprint
Rating the State Quarter Designs
March 28, 2008
The State Quarter program kicked off in 1999 and was to end at the end of 2008. It has since been extended to add the US Territories to the program. Whether they should have been there from the beginning is a matter of debate for another time. The purpose of this article is to review the best and worst designs.
Coin Art is a matter of personal opinion and what appeals to one person may not appeal to another. With that in mind, I need to state that these are my opinions. At the end of this article will be a link where you can state your opinions on each and every design.
My top 5 Designs in no order are Arizona, Alaska, Colorado, North Dakota and Minnesota.
The Arizona design fully depicts the beauty of AZ. The design is full and rich. The sun, a cactus and the Grand Canyon, that says it all.
The Alaska design depicts the wild beauty of Alaska, or at least what is left. Seriously, a grizzly bear emerging from the water with a salmon in his/her mouth? Awesome! Also, there is a waterfall in the back rather than just a stream to add additional detail to a wonderful design.
The Colorado design shows the high mountains with pine trees surrounding the base. One can just imagine the snow capped peaks, the smell of pine and the wildlife that his hidden beneath it all. If you are a skier, than you are likely to be imagining coming down one of those peaks at full speed.
The North Dakota design shows the great American Bison on the grass lands with the sun in the background as well as canyons and buttes. The image of the bison is very nice.
The Minnesota design depicts someone fishing on a calm lake with the forest in the background. Known as the "Land or 10,000 lakes", it is only fitting that this is what ended up in the Minnesota coin.
Now, my bottom 5 is also in no order. Let me first say that when sorting a group of objects, something or someone has to be on top and someone has to be on the bottom. It does not necessarily mean they are bad. Remember, there were hundreds of other designs that never made it to a coin. My bottom five, or least appealing designs in no particular order are Connecticut, Wyoming, Kansas, Michigan, and Wisconsin
I have the Connecticut design on my list because at first glance it is just a dead tree. Unless you know about the history, you would not know what this represents. So, for most Americans, it is just a dead tree.
Wyoming made the due to the flatness of the design. While it was apparently intentional, it just does not give any artistic flair. It is just boring.
The Kansas quarter made the list as I do not like the look of the bison. It also has too much open space. The coin could have had more to it.
Michigan made the list as it is merely an outline of the state and the surrounding great lakes. Yes it is the Great Lakes state, but the UP is overshadowed by the lakes.
Finally, Wisconsin made the list as the site of a cow and cheese on a coin just does not seem right. Yes, Wisconsin is America's Dairy Land and should be proud of it, but maybe a picture of a Harley Davidson would have been nice. After all, isn't a Harley the dream of every American man?
Well, I hope you enjoyed this little rant about the state quarter program. As promised, read the box below to get links to the opinions of other people on each state quarter as well as the opportunity for you.
About the Author
Keith Scott has been a collector for over 30 years. His website has Coin stuff Reviews. For coin reviews and State Quarter Reviews go here. Visit his websites for a history of US coins, metal market updates and news about your favorite coins.
Article Source: Content for Reprint
Sprucing Up Your Model Plane
March 27, 2008
The trick for achieving this is to use lots of sandpaper of the correct grade. Sanding paper is available in many grades and it is advisable to buy it in boxes to economize. However, this would depend on your requirements. Many people use wet and dry paper, which is not right for wood and is meant only for non-porous materials like metal and paint etc. However, this type of paper available in very fine grit is excellent for sanding blocks of soft balsa or the wing tips of your model plane as it removes very little material and leaves an extremely fine and smooth surface. Before you begin sanding go over the surface of your model and remove any blobs of glue you find. Carefully cut them off with an X-Acto knife. Then, vacuum the structure to remove any loose particles to prevent gouges in the wood as they get trapped between the sanding block and the sanding surface. The sanding block should also be examined before use, to ensure that there is nothing sticking to the bottom that may cause gouges.
You should take on sanding on sunny days, which will let you examine the surface for the sanding perfection. The sanded surface is the base for the quality of appeal your model plane will acquire when you complete applying the final finish. Air brushing is the best way to apply the final finish. Painting requires skill and you should spend some time practicing with cheap paints before attempting to paint your model plane. Painting is time taking and labor intensive. If you want your model to look great, you must be prepared to put in what is required.
The most popular paints that are used these days for model planes include polyurethanes and enamels. These paint types provide better coverage and have less shrinkage to provide an attractive, economical and durable painted surface by application of lesser number of coats. However, the downside is that they take much too long to dry and are not always fuel proof. On the other hand, automotive urethane is of very high quality and also provides excellent coverage, very quick drying time, is fuel proof but is extremely toxic. At the same time it is also very expensive. And if you need a custom color mixed, most companies will mix a minimum of one quart, whereas all you may need may be half a pint. So the result will surely be a lot of wasted paint if you have no other use for it. Finally apply a final coat of clear gloss and fix the decals. Now your model is ready to attract envious stares!
About the Author
Victor Epand is an expert consultant for model planes and model helicopters. You can find the best marketplace for model planes and model helicopters by visiting the best sites for model planes, model fighter planes, and model helicopters.
Article Source: Content for Reprint
Katana Sword - The Collector’s Information Source
March 27, 2008
History and Culture of the Katana Sword -
Japanese warriors carried two sabers in their belt, both on the left side. One was long and the other was short. The long one is called the Daito - literally, long saber, which is known as the Katana. The short one is Shoto - literally, short saber, which is a wakizachi.
Today these sabers or swords are beautiful collector's items and still used for practice combat. Most choices in the present day are in the decorations, like the beautiful crane and bamboo style engraved on the tsuba or guard (which looks like a belt buckle or a loop around the sword) that protects your hand. This is at the very bottom of the handle.
Dragon Symbols in Japanese Culture -
In every culture, there seems to be a story of a dragon and the Japanese are certainly no exception. The difference between a western dragon and one of the orient is that the orient dragon is usually wise and benevolent. It is the ruler of water and weather, and the dragon is the symbol of power and emperor to most samurai. That is why dragons are an important symbol on many of the katana swords.
The crane style Katana sword is said to be lighter and faster than the Samurai. These swords were forged out of Swedish powdered steel. The tsuba or guard is pierced crane style, which symbolizes longevity and wisdom. The Katana sword will serve you well if you want a blade for strength or serious cutting. It is also perfect for practicing Aikido.
Stories of the Crane Katana Sword -
The story goes that the Meunki are a younger and older scholar/sage. This means that a man of wisdom and integrity would be long in service of his lord, usually surviving one lord to service the next generation. This is why the crane is meant to resemble wisdom and longevity.
The Crane Katana sword is 10 inches long with two Mekugi securing the Tsuka or handle to the tang. Tsuka or handle lengths come in lengths of 11", 13", 14" and 15" for the Crane Katana swords. The lengths of the blades run 27.5, 28.5 and 29.5. This allows for a unique choice in blades and quality of handles as well.
The hada - grain in the steel - is apparent. This is the result of the extensive forging and folding. This is the process that is done by hand to ensure that each one is unique and strong.
The Bamboo Katana sword has softer steel which provides an excellent shock resistant and strength with superior edge holding and cutting abilities. Both the tsuka and the saya (scabbard or holder of the blade) are custom hand-made for each individual sword.
Creation of a Katana Sword -
Most of today's katana swords are handcrafted with the purpose of being usable art. They are dangerous and not a toy so display them where children cannot get to them. The blades of the katana swords are made of carbon steel that is forged and pounded by hand in the traditional way by most of the manufacturers you will find out there. A good katana needs to be flexible or it is sure to break in battle.
Cleaning Your Katana Sword Collection -
Always clean your katana carefully, the blade is very sharp and can easily cut you. Use a fine oil and rice paper to remove the oil. And always move the soft cloth away from you, gently and slowly. The key is patience and slowness because of the sharp cutting blade.
Showing Off Your Katana -
When displaying your katana, always display it in the sheath with the cutting edge up that way the edge does not bear the scabbards (holder) weight.
The saya or scabbard is intentionally tight to avoid accidental unsheathing. To pull your sword out of the scabbard, use both hands. Hold the scabbard in your left hand and push away the guard (tsbua) and slowly pull the handle with your right hand. Make sure the cutting edge is pointing away from you. This will protect you from being cut and the katana from becoming dull scraping against the scabbard.
When putting the katana back in the scabbard, point the sword and scabbard down and away from you. Hold the opening close to the top and slowly tilt the katana back into the saya and slide it downward, letting gravity help you as much as you can. The key here is to go slow and be careful of the cutting edge.
About the Author
William "Cole" Doggett is a knife expert and owns an Internet knife shop, Knife Supply Company, LLC at Pocket Knife | Hunting Knife | SOG Knife. His website is devoted to all things pocket knives, the Katana Sword, swords, kitchen cutlery, sharpeners, machetes and a wealth of information.
Article Source: Content for Reprint
From Manual Knife Sharpening to Fancy, Electric and Hand-Held Sharpeners
March 27, 2008
Today's Knife Sharpeners -
There are several different types and styles of electric and non-electric knife sharpeners on the market today that range in prices just as much as styles and types. And using a hand-held or electric sharpener is not as intimidating as using a honing stone because you do not have to get the angle just right - the device does all of that work for you. The electric or hand-held sharpeners have all the angles figured for you. They are usually simple to use and can make fast work of sharpening so you can get on with what you are slicing. They are also convenient for sharpening serrated knives and things like pinking shears that are impossible to sharpen with a honing stone.
TV Knives and Food Shows -
The increase in cooking shows has had a large impact on the knife and sharpening business. Many of the cooks show how to properly handle and maintain or sharpen the knives on their shows.
What Is In That Blade?
To begin with, steel of the knife is the heart of the knife, and what it's actually made of is a closely guarded secret among industry insiders. What we have learned is that this steel formulation is made for wear and stain resistance rather than holding a high performance edge. However, the tradeoff is the heat treatment that leaves the steel softer than it should be. The harder the steel, the sharper the edge stays for a longer period of time.
Through Thick and Thin -
Then there is the debate about the knife being thick or thin. There is a myth that a thick knife is better, but studies show that a thick knife will not hold a sharpened edge as long as a thinner knife will. Thinner edges cut better, putting less stress on the blade and therefore, last longer.
Depending on how comfortable you are with sharpening your knife, that is how you will want to sharpen your knife.
Types of Knife Sharpeners -
Some knife sharpeners sit on the counter, or can be stored away until needed. When you need them they are set in place and you drag your knives across a pre-angled honing stone set within the sharpener. This usually resembles a square or rectangle with several V's in it and when you plug it in, (its electric) the stones vibrate at a certain speed and you simple take your dulled knife across the honing stone, and when you bring the knife out the other end you have a sharpened knife. Some models have an abrasive slot that will polish as well as sharpen the knives.
In addition to the counter top sharpeners, there are hand-held sharpeners which are held in your hand and can be made to be used as electric, battery operated, or as a hand powered model. Either model would use a stone or some type of abrasive to sharpen the knife and polish the blade, just as the counter top models do.
Sharpening Serrated Knives -
When sharpening a serrated knife, pretend that there is no serration there. Sharpen the back of the knife blade and this will save the serrations longer. You can also use a diamond tapered or ceramic file to individually file each of the serrations so they don't flatten out and go away completely when you use a regular honing stone, an electric, or hand held sharpener. The serrations last longer because they don't come in contact with the hardened surfaces as much as the edges of a regular blade might, and you want to keep it that way.
There are several ways to tell if your knife is sharpened enough without hurting yourself. There is the Q-tip method in which you push the fuzzy head over the edge of the knife. Any burrs or nicks would catch on the fuzz and unravel, pulling the cotton from its place.
Another test is the pen test in which you angle the pen about 30 to 35 degrees on a flat surface, then take the knife and lay it straight up and down on the pen. Pull from the heel to tip and if it bites in, you've set your angle just right. If it slides off, then you have to go back to the drawing board and sharpen some more.
No one model or way of sharpening your knives is better for the knife or works better than the other. Find the best one for you!
About the Author
William "Cole" Doggett is a knife expert and owns an Internet knife shop, Knife Supply Company, LLC at Pocket Knife | Hunting Knife | SOG Knife. His website is devoted to all things Knife Sharpeners, pocket knives, swords, kitchen cutlery, sharpeners, machetes and a wealth of information. Stop by!
Article Source: Content for Reprint
From Manual Knife Sharpening to Fancy, Electric and Hand-Held Sharpeners
March 27, 2008
Today's Knife Sharpeners -
There are several different types and styles of electric and non-electric knife sharpeners on the market today that range in prices just as much as styles and types. And using a hand-held or electric sharpener is not as intimidating as using a honing stone because you do not have to get the angle just right - the device does all of that work for you. The electric or hand-held sharpeners have all the angles figured for you. They are usually simple to use and can make fast work of sharpening so you can get on with what you are slicing. They are also convenient for sharpening serrated knives and things like pinking shears that are impossible to sharpen with a honing stone.
TV Knives and Food Shows -
The increase in cooking shows has had a large impact on the knife and sharpening business. Many of the cooks show how to properly handle and maintain or sharpen the knives on their shows.
What Is In That Blade?
To begin with, steel of the knife is the heart of the knife, and what it's actually made of is a closely guarded secret among industry insiders. What we have learned is that this steel formulation is made for wear and stain resistance rather than holding a high performance edge. However, the tradeoff is the heat treatment that leaves the steel softer than it should be. The harder the steel, the sharper the edge stays for a longer period of time.
Through Thick and Thin -
Then there is the debate about the knife being thick or thin. There is a myth that a thick knife is better, but studies show that a thick knife will not hold a sharpened edge as long as a thinner knife will. Thinner edges cut better, putting less stress on the blade and therefore, last longer.
Depending on how comfortable you are with sharpening your knife, that is how you will want to sharpen your knife.
Types of Knife Sharpeners -
Some knife sharpeners sit on the counter, or can be stored away until needed. When you need them they are set in place and you drag your knives across a pre-angled honing stone set within the sharpener. This usually resembles a square or rectangle with several V's in it and when you plug it in, (its electric) the stones vibrate at a certain speed and you simple take your dulled knife across the honing stone, and when you bring the knife out the other end you have a sharpened knife. Some models have an abrasive slot that will polish as well as sharpen the knives.
In addition to the counter top sharpeners, there are hand-held sharpeners which are held in your hand and can be made to be used as electric, battery operated, or as a hand powered model. Either model would use a stone or some type of abrasive to sharpen the knife and polish the blade, just as the counter top models do.
Sharpening Serrated Knives -
When sharpening a serrated knife, pretend that there is no serration there. Sharpen the back of the knife blade and this will save the serrations longer. You can also use a diamond tapered or ceramic file to individually file each of the serrations so they don't flatten out and go away completely when you use a regular honing stone, an electric, or hand held sharpener. The serrations last longer because they don't come in contact with the hardened surfaces as much as the edges of a regular blade might, and you want to keep it that way.
There are several ways to tell if your knife is sharpened enough without hurting yourself. There is the Q-tip method in which you push the fuzzy head over the edge of the knife. Any burrs or nicks would catch on the fuzz and unravel, pulling the cotton from its place.
Another test is the pen test in which you angle the pen about 30 to 35 degrees on a flat surface, then take the knife and lay it straight up and down on the pen. Pull from the heel to tip and if it bites in, you've set your angle just right. If it slides off, then you have to go back to the drawing board and sharpen some more.
No one model or way of sharpening your knives is better for the knife or works better than the other. Find the best one for you!
About the Author
William "Cole" Doggett is a knife expert and owns an Internet knife shop, Knife Supply Company, LLC at Pocket Knife | Hunting Knife | SOG Knife. His website is devoted to all things Knife Sharpeners, pocket knives, swords, kitchen cutlery, sharpeners, machetes and a wealth of information. Stop by!
Article Source: Content for Reprint
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